MY VISIT TO THARANGAMBAADI - A JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY AND SEA

 MY VISIT TO THARANGAMBAADI - A JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY AND SEA

Before the Visit - This Time and Long Ago

This was not my first time in Tharangambaadi. I first came here in April 2005, during my school holidays. I was 14 years old then. At that time, I only saw the beach. I put my feet in the water and felt happy. I also saw the Danish Fort from the outside, but I didn’t go inside. That incomplete visit stayed in my memory.

Years later, I visited Tharangambaadi beach again. During that visit, the stories about the Danish Fort caught my attention again. I wanted to know more. So this time, I planned a trip to see the town fully – not just the beach, but the fort, the museums, the churches, and the history.

I chose Thursday, 26th March 2026, for my visit. I started from my home in Mayilaadudhurai at 9:30 AM in the morning. I traveled alone. I took a TNSTC bus. I carried only a few things - a water bottle, an umbrella to block the sun, and a small backpack. The weather that day was very hot, but I was excited.

The Journey There

I took the TNSTC bus from Mayilaadudhurai. The bus passed through Sembanaar Koil, Aakkur, and Thirukkadaiyur before reaching Tharangambaadi. The road was good. The bus ride took about 50 minutes. I did not stop anywhere on the way. I felt both excited and relaxed during the journey – excited to see the historical places, and relaxed watching the countryside go by.

Arrival and First Impressions

I reached Tharangambaadi at 10:50 AM in the morning. The first thing I saw was the old town gate. It stood tall and gave me a feeling that I was entering a place with a long history. Seeing the gate made me curious to see what was inside.

Exploring the Town in Order

The Beach – First Stop

I started my walk from the beach. It was midday and very sunny, so there were very few people. The beach was quiet and peaceful. The waves were gentle, and the sand was clean. I spent some time there before moving on.

Tharangambaadi beach is known as India’s only ozone-rich beach. Danish studies in the 1960s, later confirmed by Indian researchers, found that the air here has very high ozone content – one of the highest in the world. Ozone is a form of oxygen that absorbs harmful UV rays. When you breathe it, the air feels fresh, clean, and good for health. The ozone levels are highest between April and July. This is not a myth. It is science. And it is one more reason why this beach is special – not just for its history, but for the very air you breathe.

Masilaamani Naadhar Temple

Next, I visited the Masilamani Nathar Temple. This is an old temple with beautiful stone carvings. The temple felt calm and peaceful. I walked around the corridors and spent a few moments in the quietness.

Fort Dansborg – The Danish Fort

From there, I walked to Fort Dansborg – the famous Danish Fort.

Fort Dansborg, also called the Danish Fort, stands on the shores of the Bay of Bengal. It was built in 1620 by Danish Admiral Ove Gjedde after an agreement with the Thanjavur king Raghunatha Nayak. The fort was the base for the Danish settlement in India for more than 200 years.

This is the second largest Danish fort in the world – after Kronborg Castle in Denmark, the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. The fort has a trapezoidal shape. It is 60 meters long. It has high ceilings, large halls, and dome shapes that look like camel humps.

Inside, the basement was used as a store room, prison, and rest room for soldiers. The governor and priests lived on the upper level. The fort was sold to the British in 1845. After India’s independence in 1947, it was used as a government inspection bungalow until 1978. Then the Tamil Nadu Archaeology Department took control. The fort was renovated twice – once in 2001 with help from the Danish Royal Family, and again in 2011 by the Tamil Nadu Tourism Department.

But when I entered the fort, I saw that maintenance and renovation works were going on. I walked inside, but I could not see the artifacts or the museum collections properly. I went to the four sides of the first floor and saw the different views – the beach, the bungalow on the beach, the Governor’s Bungalow, and the sea from all angles. I also saw the old cells from outside. Even though I could not see all the historical objects, walking inside the same walls where Danish soldiers and governors once walked gave me a strong feeling of history.

The usual visiting hours are from 10 AM to 5:45 PM. The fort is closed on Fridays. The entry fee is ₹5 for Indians and ₹50 for foreigners.

Ziegenbalg House and Museum

After the fort, I went to the Ziegenbalg House and Museum. This is a 300 yrs old house building turned into museum now, where German missionary Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg once lived and worked. In 2017, this old bungalow was restored and turned into a museum of cultural exchange.

The restoration was done by the Francke Foundation in Halle, Germany, along with the Tamil Evangelical Lutheran Church (TELC) and INTACH. They did not change the original structure. The building still looks like it did in the 1700s.

Inside the museum, I saw the remains of the printing machines used by Ziegenbalg, models of the typeface letters from the first Tamil printing press, and books and articles used by Ziegenbalg himself. The museum also has a “Germany Cabinet” – an art project where an Indian artist collected objects representing German culture. This is similar to how the Halle missionaries once sent Indian objects to Germany 300 years ago.

I met two women staff members in the museum, and they explained many things. I learned about the life and work of Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg. He translated the Bible into Tamil. He set up the first printing press for Tamil. He worked hard for education. Seeing his old printing press, handwritten manuscripts, and personal belongings made me feel deep respect for his work and sacrifices for Tamil society. The idea behind the museum is to tell the full story: Ziegenbalg did not work alone. It was a team effort. Tamil scholars, local craftsmen, and many others worked with him.

The visiting hours are from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. On Sundays, it is open from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM.

Churches and Colonial Buildings

Then I visited the New Jerusalem Church. It was a simple but beautiful church with a peaceful feel. From there, I walked to Zion Church. I saw it only from the outside this time. Its white structure and tall walls stood quietly, showing the passage of time.

I also walked past the Post Office. I noticed that the closest post office from the beach is the Tharangambaadi Post Office – it is only about 50 meters away. Then I walked to the harbor area. The harbor had fishing boats and a quiet, everyday life feel.

I then saw Carls Bastion, another old structure from the Danish period. I also saw some buildings only from the outside – the Ziegenbalg Spiritual Center, the Governor’s Bungalow, a bungalow on the beach, and Flora Cottage. Each of these buildings had a colonial look – large doors, thick walls, and sloping roofs.

By the end of the day, I found myself walking back to the beach again. This time, the afternoon light made the sea look different. I sat for a while, just watching the waves and thinking about everything I had seen.

Maritime Museum – From My Previous Visit

I had visited the Maritime Museum on an earlier trip. That museum is in Van Theylingen’s House. This is an 18th-century bungalow that was once the home of a Danish military commander. It is located right opposite Fort Dansborg, so you can visit both easily. Inside this small but interesting museum, I saw an old wooden ship with its oars placed in the center, parts of ships collected from Danish vessels, Chinese tea jars, glass objects, swords and daggers, preserved sea life, shells, a giant sawfish rostrum, and a powerful photo and video display about the 2004 tsunami that destroyed this coast. The museum was restored by the Danish Tranquebar Association. Walking through its rooms, you feel the deep connection between Denmark and this small Tamil town – a connection that began 400 years ago and is still alive today. The visiting hours are from 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM and then from 2:30 PM to 6:00 PM.

Food and Snacks on the Way

The day was very sunny, and I was walking most of the time. I did not stop for a proper lunch. Along the right side of the road, there were small platform shops selling snacks. I bought mango pieces and pineapple pieces from one of them. The fruit was fresh and helped me cool down in the heat. Later, I ate an Arun Butterscotch ice cream. At these shops, you can find fruit salads, cool drinks, ice creams, tea and also sundal, vaazhakkaai bajji, melagaa bajji, masaalaa poori and other snacks in evening. It was a simple but satisfying way to eat.

A Special Note for Visitors – Food and Stay

Whether you are a local visitor or a foreigner, all are welcome here. It is a good idea to ask before coming to the fort about the food available in the morning, afternoon, or night in or near the beach. You can also find places to stay near the beach.

Here are some of the hotels and places to stay in Tharangambaadi:

A. Heritage and Beachfront Hotels:

1. Neemrana’s – Bungalow on The Beach (24 King Street) – A heritage property right on the beach. It has a swimming pool, restaurant, and free breakfast. It is very close to Fort Dansborg and the beach.

2. Neemrana’s Coconut Alley (2, Rani Street) – Another heritage property with a garden, terrace, restaurant, and free breakfast. It is about 300 meters from Tharangambaadi Beach.

B. Budget and Mid-Range Hotels:

1. Le Royal Resort – By the Beach (No 15 A, Rani Street) – Located about 300 meters from the beach.

2. JR Residency – A budget option with 100 rooms and free self-parking.

3. Anbu Paradise (West Street) – A budget hotel with 24-hour front desk and parking.

4. Temple View Residency – Another budget option near the town.

There are also many small lodges and local stays available in and around Tharangambaadi. It is best to book in advance during busy seasons.

Safety and Warnings – What Every Visitor Should Know

People usually wet their legs and stand in the shore near the Carls Bastion area. This area is straight from the main road to the shore. It has easy access for people to step into the water. The other areas on the left and right sides have big stones placed to stop the big waves.

Playing or bathing in the beach is not safe. The Tharangambaadi Beach Police Station has warned people because many fatalities have happened here. Warning boards are placed on the beach. People have to be very careful while at the beach.

One problem that families face here is the nuisance caused by some young boys and girls doing intimate acts in the open. They do this in clear daylight – either openly or hidden near the beach. This happens mainly on the north side of the beach, behind the bungalow on the beach across the shore. This should be stopped.

If you want to see the harbor after seeing the main beach area, here is a special warning – especially for women. Do not go alone along the shore path from the main beach area to the harbor area in daytime also. This area looks empty even in day time. It feels unsafe for girls. If you want to see the harbor, go in a group of three or more people, and at least one man should be with the group.

Learning the History of the Danish Settlement

    During my visit, I learned more about the Danish settlement. The Danes called Tharangambaadi “Tranquebar.” They came here in 1620 and built Fort Dansborg as their headquarters. They ruled here for more than 200 years. The town was an important trading post. Later, the British took over. Finally, the town became part of India.

What surprised me most was the story of Ziegenbalg. I did not know earlier that one person could do so much for a language and a society far from his own home. His work in Tamil literature, printing, and education left a strong impression on me.

Return Journey

    I left Tharangambaadi at 4:30 PM in the evening. I took the same bus route back – through Thirukkadaiyur, Aakkur, and Sembanaar Koil. I did not stop anywhere on the way. I reached home in Mayilaadudhurai at 6:30 PM in the evening. The journey back was quiet. I spent the time thinking about the history I had seen.

Final Thoughts and Tips for Visitors

My visit to Tharangambaadi was good and informative. I learned many new things about the Danish settlement and about Ziegenbalg’s remarkable work. The only problem was the heat – it was very sunny all day.

Here are my tips for visitors:

1. Bring sunglasses, a cap, a hat, or an umbrella – especially if you come in the middle of the day. The sun is very strong.

2. Start early in the morning or go late in the evening to avoid the worst heat.

3. Carry enough drinking water with you.

4. Wear comfortable shoes because you will walk a lot.

5. Keep your phone charged for taking photos – there are many beautiful spots.

6. Be careful at the beach – do not go into the water. Follow the warning boards.

7. If you come with family, avoid the north side of the beach to stay away from nuisance.

8. Do not go to the harbor area alone – especially if you are a woman. Go in a group.

9. Take time to visit the Ziegenbalg Museum and talk to the people there. They share valuable stories.

Would I recommend others to visit? Yes, definitely. Tharangambaadi is a place where history, sea, and even the air you breathe are special.

Would I visit again? If I get a chance, I will. There is still more to see. I would like to spend more time at the museum when the fort maintenance is finished.

The referential date and notes :

1.’தரங்கம்பாடி டேனிஷ் கோட்டை அருகே ரூ.63 லட்சத்தில் அலை தடுப்பு சுவர் அமைக்கும் பணி’, Dinathanthi Newspaper, 05.03.2023.

2.’தரங்கம்பாடியில் பொலிவிழந்து வரும் வரலாற்று சின்னங்கள்’, Dinathanthi Newspaper, 20.08.2023.

3.’தரங்கம்பாடிக்கு சீகன்பால்கு வந்ததன் 317-ம் ஆண்டு கொண்டாட்டம்’, Dinathanthi Newspaper, 09.07.2023.

4.https://foreningentrankebar.dk/